Perfume Pagodas

Do you smell that?

No, smell what?

Yesterday I boarded a canoe/row boat and headed to the Perfume Pagodas. This is not just one pagoda, but a collection of over one hundred Confucianism and Buddhist temples built into the limestone cliffs of the Huong Tich Mountains. I am uncertain as to why the name "Perfume Pagodas" was used to label the area, but I have an inclination that it has to do with all the burning incense......... or the fact that you better of brought some perfume with you to cover-up the b.o. that you developed while walking up the mountain.

I was lucky enough to visit during the end of the Vietnamese lunar new year and so there was a large festival going on. Due to the festival Buddhist Vietnamese were making their pilgrimage to the various pagodas/temples (it does not seem to matter which they go to) to receive good luck for the new year.

The main pagoda that I visited was located at the top of a mountain. There is a cable car that will take you close to the top, but I opted to walk---thinking it would be more in the pilgrim spirit. There is a stone path the slithers up the mountain and on either side of the path are shops to purchase offerings. My guide informed me that usually there are not so many shops, but due to the festival they were out in force. From the various shops I went by it seems that offerings can be just about anything...from fake money, chocolate, beer, or a plastic seal that does tricks. The fake money is interesting because once it is set on the alter it is lite on fire. They do this because they believe that the money is being sent to the dead.

Once I reached the top, covered in a blanket of sweat, b.o. and Vietnamese gawkers I realized that the real pilgrims were taking the cable car up....I should have known

After I viewed the pagoda located in a cave at the top of the mountain, I opted out of heading back down the "Branson" themed walkway and instead took the cable car down. At the bottom I had lunch while seating under a fan in hopes that my shirt might dry. I did take note that across the table from me there was a large glass jar of snake wine. Think yellow liquid and various sizes of dead snakes...althoght tempting i decided I should leave that for the real pilgrams.

Then last night I took an overnight train to Da Nang. This morning I arrived and caught a city bus to Ho Ani (only about 25 miles away), which is where I will be for the next two days. This city is known for the ancient city, the beach, and the clothing shops. After several backpackers told me about getting suits made here I decided to. I have just returned from picking out the cloth, the style and getting measured. My suit will cost exactly 45 dollars...........can you believe it!!!!

Pause (I have returned from Ho Ani and arrived in Hanoi at 4:00 a.m. I am setting in a hostel waiting for things to open up)

I must appoligize for the lack of photos. I am having trouble locating a computer that will upload my pictures (I really hope nothing is wrong with my computer camera)!

Ho Ani was nice, but I was ready to leave. The highlights of the trip were:

1. going to the beach and getting the worse burn I have ever had. This was a little undaunting because I sat under what I thought was a shade tree the whole time.

2. Sharing a room with a true French women--who loved to walk around completely naked. I usually just turned my face to the wall to avoid ackward conversation, but I must admit that I was concern for the children playing in the courtyard directly attached to our room (which....had no curtains!!!!)

3. Going to dinner with two girls I had met on the boat trip in Halong Bay and walking throught the dark city market--hearing two large crashes and then having the largest rats I have ever seen (remember that I have lived in chicago and they are cat size there) run directly infront of me. But all in all....I would say the trip was fun.

Tonight I am taking an overnight train to Sapa. I plan on being there for three days.

Miss everyone and send my love.

P.S. This morning, on the train, a beautiful elderly woman (I say 70 or 80) walked out of the cabin next to me. She was dressed in silk pajamas, a pearl necklace and earings. Her husband came walding behind her, carrying what I thought was a glass of wine or beer. As he is walking down the corridor I notice liquid splashing out. I considered going to help him with his glass...then my mind flashed back to 1996 in a van ride that was shared with my father T. Coult, D Coult, R Stephens, and a rusty metal can...and decided I better not.