Several days have pasted since I made the lonely walk across the Vietnam/China boarder. Upon arriving in China I bought an overnight bus ticket from Hekou (China boarder city--that is pretty depressing) to Kunming.
I am not sure if words can describe my feelings about an overnight bus....I suppose if McDonald's had a burger for it, it would be called the McHorrid and I obviously bought and ate it!
Not only did I have a middle bed, which means that I had no access to a window. The majority of the bus was occupied by a boys school (I believe their age was around 15-16) who all seemed to be chain-smokers with very stinky feet. They also did not seem to enjoy the fresh air because none of them would open the window! At one point I had on one of those white face masks and stuffed inside were dryer sheets and I was still smelling all the badness. Also, the ride was a 12 hour bus ride on a gravel road. This point (the gravel road) interested me, because it was a gravel road that was directly under the interstate. Basically we were driving through the mountains and so the interstate was elevated on high pillars--but instead of using that road we decided to venture on this pot filled dirt (if we were lucky gravel) road. But I guess I can't complain...I arrived!
Not only did I have a middle bed, which means that I had no access to a window. The majority of the bus was occupied by a boys school (I believe their age was around 15-16) who all seemed to be chain-smokers with very stinky feet. They also did not seem to enjoy the fresh air because none of them would open the window! At one point I had on one of those white face masks and stuffed inside were dryer sheets and I was still smelling all the badness. Also, the ride was a 12 hour bus ride on a gravel road. This point (the gravel road) interested me, because it was a gravel road that was directly under the interstate. Basically we were driving through the mountains and so the interstate was elevated on high pillars--but instead of using that road we decided to venture on this pot filled dirt (if we were lucky gravel) road. But I guess I can't complain...I arrived!
Kunming is a very modern city and I had a great time roaming the streets and hiking the parks. During my roaming I actually found a Wal-mart.........what happened to my authentic Asian experience?
I then took a day bus (because I am trying to avoided the night bus again) to Lijiang........and it was beautiful. It is near the Tibetan boarder and so there are fields of yellow flowers, snow capped mountains, and beautiful rice terraces. On arriving to Lijiang I called Mama Naxi (someone had suggested this hostel) and someone picked up the phone and said, "No worries...Mama come and get you"--and in five minutes a mini bus had arrived and loaded me and my bag into the vessel and blasted into the busy streets of Lijiang.
I then took a day bus (because I am trying to avoided the night bus again) to Lijiang........and it was beautiful. It is near the Tibetan boarder and so there are fields of yellow flowers, snow capped mountains, and beautiful rice terraces. On arriving to Lijiang I called Mama Naxi (someone had suggested this hostel) and someone picked up the phone and said, "No worries...Mama come and get you"--and in five minutes a mini bus had arrived and loaded me and my bag into the vessel and blasted into the busy streets of Lijiang.
Mama Naxi's (sounds like Nashi) is located in the old city of Lijiang--which contains buildings that are all traditional Naxi architecture--and this hostel is one of the best I have stayed in. First, there is a 2 dollar dinner served every night. This is by far the best food I have had since I have arrived. Second, beds are only 2 dollars....and they are nice. Third, Mama is just a very nice woman who gives you lots of tea and bananas--and even a good luck necklace when you leave.*
I left Lijiang a few days later and headed to Tiger Leaping Gorge with a few people I had met at Mama Naxi's. Tiger Leaping Gorge is the second deepest gorge in the world.
The first day we decided to hike to a hostel called Tea Horse (but spelled Hoyse). The hike was beautiful. It took you through small Naxi villages, fields, and the view of the mountains was amazing. I must admit upon arriving at Tea Horse I was pretty tired, but was soon convinced by one of the guys that I was hiking with, that we should make a walk down to the gorge. To be honest it did not seem that far--but my first impressions of distance were so wrong. While hiking my cough and throat began to worsen. We did make it to the water, but on the way back my asthma started to bother me and at one point I started crying because I could not breath (which is totally not like me).
Anyway the guy with me, brad, was very nice and he would stop and set with me--and with help with some local boys we finally made it back to the hostel. Although I did not feel great for the rest of the hike I did make it through the whole gorge and at the end caught a bus to Shangri-la.
Shangri-la--the last stop before many enter the world of Tibet and you might of heard of Shangri-la because of the book The Lost Horizon. I would say that Mr. Hilton's descriptions are correct. Shangri-la is beautiful. My plan is to stay in Shangri-la for several days and then head to Dali.
I miss you all and send my love.
Claire
The first day we decided to hike to a hostel called Tea Horse (but spelled Hoyse). The hike was beautiful. It took you through small Naxi villages, fields, and the view of the mountains was amazing. I must admit upon arriving at Tea Horse I was pretty tired, but was soon convinced by one of the guys that I was hiking with, that we should make a walk down to the gorge. To be honest it did not seem that far--but my first impressions of distance were so wrong. While hiking my cough and throat began to worsen. We did make it to the water, but on the way back my asthma started to bother me and at one point I started crying because I could not breath (which is totally not like me).
Anyway the guy with me, brad, was very nice and he would stop and set with me--and with help with some local boys we finally made it back to the hostel. Although I did not feel great for the rest of the hike I did make it through the whole gorge and at the end caught a bus to Shangri-la.
Shangri-la--the last stop before many enter the world of Tibet and you might of heard of Shangri-la because of the book The Lost Horizon. I would say that Mr. Hilton's descriptions are correct. Shangri-la is beautiful. My plan is to stay in Shangri-la for several days and then head to Dali.
I miss you all and send my love.
Claire
*Note that I thought this good luck necklace was so sweet of her---but then at Tiger Leaping Gorge I found out from a man that was hiking with me that the necklace was actually filled with marijuana!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dear god--can you imagine if I had tried to go through customs with that? So I very thought fully passed it on.
5 comments:
Awesome. So, I watched Transsiberian (and hated it), but thought to myself: these things only happen when you try to smuggle drugs inside a matryoshka doll. Apparently, though, they can happen if you get good luck necklace from Mama. You probably got sick b/c you got rid of the necklace. Should of held on to that for awhile longer...live and learn. :)
Wow... quite an experience. I heard you were sick but not about the whole night bus thing. I'm sure that didn't have anything to do with your asthma attack! =)
Claire- what a relief to see a post from you. I heard from your mother that you have been sick so I've been praying for you. Sounds like you are better!! Praise God. Don't push yourself too hard as you recuperate! We love you and miss you. MomL
wonderful to hear from you claire. I'm glad that you are well enough to get moving on....maybe Mama thought you needed a little extra "medicine". I'm very happy you discovered this in time. while it would have only added to the vault of "treebrook" stories, I'm sure it would not have been a good thing!
"treebook" took me a minute....very tricky mf
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